Understanding Melasma: Causes and Common Treatments

Melasma is a common skin condition that affects millions of people worldwide, predominantly women. Characterized by brown or grayish-brown patches on the face, melasma can be distressing for those who experience it. While there is no single cure for melasma, understanding its causes and exploring non-laser treatments can help manage and minimize its appearance. In this blog post, we'll delve into the causes of melasma and explore some of the most common treatments.

It is not a matter of if your melasma with return, but when.

Constant sun protection, a medical-grade skin care home routine and regular, professional treatments are a must to successfully manage melasma.

What Causes Melasma?

Melasma primarily occurs due to the overproduction of melanin, the pigment responsible for the color of our skin, hair, and eyes. Several factors contribute to the development of melasma:

 1. Sun Exposure: Ultraviolet (UV) rays from the sun stimulate melanocytes, the cells responsible for melanin production. Prolonged sun exposure without protection can trigger melasma or worsen existing patches. Even 5 minutes of unprotected sun exposure can trigger the production of melanin. Sun Protection is not optional. Wearing a mineral SPF of at least 30 is essential, every single day – rain or shine.

2. Hormonal Changes: Fluctuations in hormones, particularly estrogen and progesterone, play a significant role in melasma. This is why it often occurs during pregnancy (chloasma or "the mask of pregnancy"), when taking birth control pills, or during hormonal therapy. It is important to note that men can also experience melasma.

3. Genetic Predisposition: Some individuals may be genetically predisposed to melasma. If a close family member has melasma, your risk of developing it may be higher.

4. Skin Irritation: Certain skincare products, cosmetics, or procedures that irritate the skin can exacerbate melasma or trigger its development. Heat and inflammation are triggers for melasma so it is important to keep that in mind.

5. Heat:  Not only UV exposure from the sun can trigger your melasma but the actual heat it from it can too.  Strenuous exercise, high temperatures, and the sauna can all be blamed for melasma flares.

Common Treatments for Melasma

While laser therapy may be an effective treatment for melasma, it can be expensive and may have potential side effects including post inflammatory hyperpigmentation generated by heat and the ablative nature of some lasers. A combination of consistent medical grade home care and professional treatments can make a significant impact in managing melasma.

1. Topical Retinoids: Retinoids, such as tretinoin, can help improve melasma by promoting skin cell turnover. They also help other topical treatments penetrate the skin more effectively. There are many formulas available if your feel like tretinoin is not the perfect fit for you. Consult with your skin care professional to see what the best option may be for you. Consistency is key, so it’s important to find a product that you will use.

2. Azelaic Acid: Azelaic acid is a gentler alternative to hydroquinone. It works by reducing melanin production and also has anti-inflammatory properties.

3. DiamondGlow® – A series of DiamondGlow® treatments using the Even & Correct serum plus the Even & Correct Home regimen can be very effective in treating melasma and preventing the pigmentation from becoming darker.

4. Chemical Peels: Chemical peels containing glycolic acid, salicylic acid, or trichloroacetic acid can help improve melasma by removing the top layer of skin and reducing pigmentation. They should be administered by a trained professional.

5. Medical Microneedling: A series of medical microneedling treatments is an excellent treatment for melasma. Restoring proper communication between the skin cells, melanocytes and keratinocytes, is key to regulating pigment production.

 6. Cosmeceuticals: Some skincare products containing ingredients like vitamin C, niacinamide, and licorice extract can help brighten and even out skin tone when used consistently.

7. Sun Protection: Wearing broad-spectrum mineral sunscreen with a high SPF (30 or higher) is crucial for preventing melasma and minimizing its appearance. Hats and sunglasses can also provide additional protection.

Setting Expectations - It’s Marathon, Not a Sprint

  • Proper management is key. It is not a matter of if your melasma will flare again, but when.

  • Maintenance treatments are a must to keep optimal results.

  • Melasma is a slow and challenging condition to manage but it can be done with time 6-18 month, consistency of professional treatments and a home care regimen.

  • It's essential to consult with a dermatologist or skin care professional to develop a personalized treatment plan tailored to your specific needs.

  • Remember that patience and consistent sun protection are key factors in managing melasma effectively.

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