Summer Skin Care
Here are some of the most common question that I receive related to caring for youR skin during the hot summer months.
What is the proper way to care for your skin during the summer?
Each season creates new changes and demands in our skin care. I believe your skin care routine should be very simple by selecting the most appropriate ingredients that are tailored to your specific skin and skin concerns. One step that is not negotiable during any season or weather condition is wearing an SPF, rain or shine. I recommend mineral Sunscreens with and SPF (Sun Protection Factor) of 30 or greater. Many of the options that I offer in my studio are actually 40 or higher. You must apply an SPF every single day, rain or shine. In the hot summer months, it’s important to focus on the following when it comes to choosing an SPF:
Sun Protection - all day, every day - rain or shine.
Mineral vs Chemical Sunscreen: Mineral, or also known as physical sunscreens, physically block the sun from penetrating your skin. They have many advantages over chemical sunscreens. Chemical filters are present in many sunscreen formulations, but they force your skin to absorb those chemicals to reflect the sun’s rays and create heat in the skin. Many people with sensitive skin are also sensitive to these chemical sunscreen filters.
Mineral sunscreens are the best way to protect your skin from the damaging rays of the sun. They contain physical UV blockers such as zinc oxide and titanium dioxide, which work by reflecting and scattering the sun's rays away from your skin. This also will help in the prevention of skin cancer. Damage done to our DNA and skin cells at a cellular level is what may eventually lead to skin cancer, so if for no other reason this should be first and foremost when considering a sun screen and it should begin at a very early age and continue.
Wearing an SPF daily is the best way to prevent premature aging and the most inexpensive. Prevention is the best approach. UVA rays lead to the breakdown of collagen and elastin in the skin, so protect your skin every single day. The sun’s rays are very strong, even on cloudy days. Your skin is not stronger than the sun’s rays, UVA – cause aging and UVB rays burn. We need to apply to face, neck and chest – signs of aging appear on the chest before the face to be sure to include that area as well as the arms and back of the hands.
Wear a wide brimmed hat as well to protect your face and neck. A baseball cap does not provide adequate protection to your lower face, neck and chest so opt for a wide brimmed hat that is made of a sun protective material.
A mineral SPF provides immediate protection and are the preference for children’s skin as well. Unlike chemical sunscreens, mineral sunscreens do not absorb into your skin and don’t contain any harsh chemicals. They are a great choice for those with sensitive skin because they are hypoallergenic and non-irritating.
This is the time of year to search for a mineral SPF that is also water resistant because we are living in the heat and humidity here in Charleston. We tend to sweat more and while are engaging in activities such as sports, including swimming and are enjoying days at the beach or by the pool. Even just running errands leads us to increased perspiration, so you want to opt for a product that is water resistant if possible.
Reapplication is also essential! You should reapply every two hours, especially if you are very active in sports or in direct sun exposure. I always recommend physical sun protection with both Zinc and/or Titanium for sun protection on your face and body. This will offer the best protection and pose less risk of skin irritation. Mineral powders are an excellent option for reapplying your SPF, including over makeup. They are convenient and provide mineral protection.
Finally, mineral sunscreens are reef safe, so you can protect your skin and the environment at the same time!
Antioxidants
Antioxidants are essential! There are many types of antioxidants and they play a pivotal role in fighting free radicals from the environment. Free radicals damage our health skin cells, attack collagen and elastin. Antioxidants are compounds that prevent oxidation, a chemical reaction that can produce free radicals. These free radicals are harmful byproducts produced by the body that can damage cells. Antioxidants can help protect and repair cells from this damage, and can also help reduce the damage caused by oxidants.
We are exposed to free radicals every single day and so it is crucial to protect your skin from the damaging effects of UV radiation from the sun and other environmental factors. One of the most well known antioxidants is Vitamin C. Vitamin C protects our cells from free radical damage, helps diminish discoloration or pigment (sun spots), may reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles and promotes collagen synthesis in the skin. It is important to choose a well formulated Vitamin C that is appropriate for you skin. Vitamin C can be tricky to formulate, so you will find that they are at a higher price point for this reason. Inexpensive Vitamin C serums that can be purchase over the counter will not provide you with the cellular protection your skin needs. Invest wisely and choose a product that has clinical research and evidence to back it’s claims. It’s important apply it every single day, just like your SPF.
Proper cleansing
An effective cleansing routine is 50% of your success in your skin care! You must begin with clean skin so that your products will absorb into your skin and not just sit on the surface.
I recommend double cleansing at night, beginning with an oil based cleanser that emulsifies, removing that cleanser with a clean, warm muslin washcloth and then proceed to your second cleanse. This cleanse will actually clean your skin now that the makeup, oil, sweat and SPF have been removed.
You have to “wash the day away” so that your night time products with active ingredients can do their job while you rest and your skin repairs itself at night.
Cleansing in the morning is also essential to remove your active ingredients, such as retinol (Vitamin A). One cleanse will do the trick in the morning and you can confidently apply your daytime protection, including your antioxidant and mineral SPF.
How often we should get facials, laser, peels and preventive upkeep.
My recommendation for facials is once a month. In the treatment room, my job is to challenge your skin with treatments by incorporating stronger, active ingredients, dermaplaning, microdermabrasion, chemical peels, or microneedling. These services should not be done at home and should be left a trained skin care professional.
The goal of professional treatments is to expedite skin cell turnover and deliver powerful ingredients beyond the top layers of the skin to positively impact collagen and elastin. This can be accomplished with customized facials, chemical peels and targeted skin treatments.
When you see a skin care professional, this is an opportunity to see what is working and what is not working as it relates to your skin and products. If you are focusing on a specific concern, this is the best way to track you progress.
Skin, like any other organ, should be cared for on a regular basis. Just like eating a healthy diet and exercising, your topical skincare routine and regular visits will help you look and feel like the very best version of yourself and optimize your skin health. If you think of your skin as an investment like a savings or retirement account, you are gradually investing in your long term skin health and will reap the benefits in years to come. It’s not immediate, but trust the process and who you are entrusting with your skin!
Certain skin concerns such as acne and melasma may require more frequent visits initially to calm the inflammation and gradually make improvements in the skin. I am not a fan of aggressive laser treatments that are more ablative in nature. I don’t believe you have to harm the skin to improve it, so it’s very rare that I will encourage clients to seek out a laser treatment. In my opinion, many lasers serve as a “quick fix “ instead of addressing the root cause of the problem, such a pigment for example, that lies within the skin. Many of these laser treatments are required as a series an annual basis to undo the damage that was done of the course of the year. Most laser treatments are sold as a package and can often time be a steep investment. If you are able to manage your conditions with a good, simple at home skin care routine and professional treatments, you will be much better off in the long run. Do not underestimate the power of patience, consistency and simplicity!
As for more advanced skin treatments, my favorite treatment is microneedling. It’s a fantastic way to promote collagen production, address pigmentation and resurface the skin without a long, painful recovery or downtime. This is best done in series to yield optimal results and is a great option for all ages, as well as men and women. I add a few additions to my treatment that make it very unique and unlike any other microneedling treatment done here in the Charleston area.
Are all skin tones the same in protecting it from the sun?
Different skin tones, also known as the Fitzpatrick scale, developed by Dr. Thomas B. Fitzpatrick, range from very pale (Fitzpatrick 1) to very, very dark (Fitzpatrick 6). Our skin tone correlates the melanin present in our skin that provides us with protection from the sun.
Melanin is the pigment-producing part of the skin that determines natural skin tone as well as how skin responds to ultraviolet (UV) rays from the sun. Essentially, very pale skin is more likely to burn. As you progress to the opposite end of the spectrum, darker skin is less likely to burn and more likely to tan during sun exposure.
It’s a common misconception that darker skin tones do not need to wear sun protection and this could not be any farther from the truth. All skin tones should be wearing sun protection every single day.
Darker skin is less like to show a sun burn, but the damaging effects of UVA and UVB radiation present the same risk of cellular damage to our DNA, which can lead to skin cancer. No matter the skin tone, wear your SPF every single day.
If we look back at old pictures from the 30s 40s 50s 60s – those generations head flawless skin. What is the difference from then and now?
When we see beautiful photographs from years ago as we compared to today, you can rest assured there were makeup and other enhancements used to create that flawless look. The same applies to today – we should not compare ourselves to photographs, social media or celebrities. There are many filters and advantages that we simply cannot see in that picture.
I do believe the environment that we live in today is much harsher that years ago. I believe environmental factors such as pollution, depletion of the ozone layer allowing more ultraviolet radiation to penetrate and the chemicals that are present in the foods that we eat have played a significant role in the health and appearance of our skin, which is why it is even more important to view your skin health as vital as your heart, lungs and brain. Medications also play a significant role in your skin and I believe there are far more medications being prescribed today compared to years ago.
Healthy skin come from within so eating a diet rich in fruits, vegetables and antioxidants and staying hydrated will help alleviate some of the internal inflammation that can lead to many common skin concerns and conditions. We live in a much more stressful, toxic environment so reducing stress and inflammation has many benefits.
Any proper protocols and application techniques one should have when using sunscreen?
Wear your mineral SPF of 30 or greater daily, rain or shine. If you have melasma, look for a tinted mineral SPF of 50 or greater.
Use two finger lengths to measure the amount of SPF needed to adequately cover your face and neck.
Apply your SPF as the last step of your skincare routine and prior to makeup application. There are many tinted option available an make an excellent alternative to wearing foundation.
Reapply every a water resistant SPF every two hours, especially if exercising, sweating or if you are in direct sun.
Mineral powders are convenient and work well over makeup.
Wear a wide brimmed hat as often as possible.
